Overnight at the four-star Hotel Il Belvedere in Torno… Gloria, Ti Amo… Tu. A love declaration? No, but it might ring a bell. This weekend, we’re attending a concert by Italian singer-songwriter Umberto Tozzi. At 72, Umberto will soon retire from live performances for good. His classics have been playing non-stop on our Spotify list, especially during our trips to Lake Como. Giving Mr. Tozzi a final farewell just feels right. He’s performing in Milan, which is the perfect excuse for us to make it a Lake Como weekend.
We didn’t immediately find a hotel that appealed to us on Booking.com. Many hotels are either unavailable or (too) pricey. When you travel to Lake Como regularly, you’ll notice that hotel rates can double or even triple through different seasons. Over recent years, we’ve also noticed prices steadily rising around Lake Como. We booked a room directly with Hotel Il Belvedere in Torno. The website listed the room as a promotion: €250 per night for a four-star hotel. We’re curious… On the other hand, the rental car was notably affordable this weekend—just €15 per day, prices we hadn’t seen in years. So much for the budget report!
Hotel Il Belvedere is located on the central square in Torno, Piazza Casartelli. Across the way, you’ll find Hotel Vapore (both hotels are owned by the same person), and right next to it is Bar Torno al Riva. Torno is a hidden gem. The waterfront is completely car-free, and the narrow streets all lead back to the charming square. Peace, coziness, and authenticity are in abundance here, with day-trippers arriving and departing to the rhythm of the ferry boats.
Parking in Torno, on the other hand, is no easy task. Hotel Il Belvedere offers private parking a bit farther away for €20 per day. If you have a lot of luggage or find the steps of Torno a bit challenging, a hotel jeep can bring your things up, bouncing and creaking over the steps. We’re somewhat counting on the relaxed—or rather sympathetic—parking policies in Torno and sometimes park our little rental car a bit less legally in any spot we can find. So far, we’ve never had any problems, though it’s always at our own risk.
It’s already late when we check in on Friday night. We drop our bags in the room and hurry over to Bar Torno al Riva for a nightcap and a snack. Unfortunately, the kitchen is already closed. The owner notices our slight disappointment and quickly sends a waiter over to our table with a plate of grissini and chunks of Parmigiano cheese. That kind of hospitality really makes us happy!
We flop onto the bed. Room 301, “Renzo,” is on the third floor and turns out to be the attic room. That means no windows, and therefore no view. The room is “okay” in terms of size and equipped with standard amenities, nothing more, nothing less. The bathroom is clean but small. Our first impression isn’t exactly “wow”: €500 on promotion (for two nights) at a four-star hotel, only to stay in an attic with no daylight. We’ll have to sleep on it…
Choosing between Hotel Il Belvedere or Hotel Vapore, two hotels owned by the same person, is like choosing between a stylish classic car and a modern sports car!
The next morning, we wake up to a thin sliver of daylight from one of the skylights, with its little curtain half-open. It promises to be a beautiful day.
Hotel Il Belvedere was fully renovated around five (?) years ago, and it shows: modern, well-kept, and clean. Fresh white hallways with brown laminate floors, glass-lined stairwells, a few plants here and there, and a surprising number of Aqua Lario scent diffusers. Each room is named after the ferry boats that sail around Lake Como. Don’t be misled by our attic room—Hotel Il Belvedere offers lovely rooms, deluxe rooms, family rooms, and suites with terraces, complete with, of course, a lake view. Cozy and atmospheric, with a modern touch.
Breakfast is well-catered and quite extensive. Eggs, various breads, pastries, a broad selection of charcuterie, fruit, yogurt, mozzarella… You get the idea. The breakfast room has large sliding glass doors, offering a fantastic view over Lake Como. A batello heads toward Como as the first warm sunrays creep over the mountain peaks. The subtle background music puts us completely at ease.
We take our time with breakfast. One small point of critique is the automatic coffee machine, which, in fairness, serves good quality coffee. But in Italy, in a four-star hotel, we would appreciate a freshly brewed cup of coffee. Especially since Hotel Vapore across the way (with three stars) does provide that fresh cup at the table.
Hotel Belvedere has more to offer. The restaurant offers gourmet lunch and dinner, with a menu that’s mouth-watering. The restaurant is cozy and inviting, and the terrace seems to float above Lake Como. Dinner by the lakeside? Check! You can also enjoy an aperitif at Bar Darsena, even if you’re not a hotel guest.
The hotel staff deserves high praise. From the night porter to the breakfast room waiter, from the housekeeping team to the receptionist. A smile, a friendly word, or a chat—hospitality is clearly the priority, and you feel it as a guest. Even a late checkout was no problem when we asked to have a quick shower after jogging on Sunday morning.
We highly recommend Hotel Il Belvedere. A modern hotel with beautiful rooms and plenty of amenities, friendly staff ready to assist, and a unique location in Torno, with the ferry docking right next to the hotel. You can enjoy lunch and dinner at the restaurant or have an aperitif at the bar. Of course, there’s a price tag attached, but it’s competitive in today’s market.
However, we don’t want to overlook Hotel Vapore in this article. After all, both hotels are owned by the same person. Vapore, the seasoned classic, could use a bit of a refresh, especially in its basic rooms. Yet, in our opinion, Vapore carries just a touch more charm, authenticity, and grandeur. That certainly explains the price difference. Vapore or Belvedere, it’s like driving a vintage car versus a modern vehicle. But whichever choice you make, you’re always more than well off in Torno!
We close the door behind us and wrap up our weekend with a glass of prosecco on the terrace of Bar Torno Al Riva. A local singer provides background music in the square. A tagliere with delicious treats is set on our table. And so, October 6 becomes another beautiful morning at Lake Como!
