Walking from Rovenna to Moltrasio along the Sentée di Sort… We’ve only just arrived in Italy, but the blanket of grey clouds that grips Belgium is already forgotten. Gentle rays of sunshine shimmer over Lake Como, and the first glass of prosecco is poured on the terrace of Hotel La Vignetta in Cernobbio.
The bottle doesn’t need to be finished (yet) and goes back into the fridge. We decide to go for a walk. Inspiration fails us for a moment, but Ash, the friendly hotel staff member, comes to the rescue. He recommends the Sentée di Sort: a short walk starting from Cernobbio that leads to Moltrasio. Sounds like a great idea, Ash!
We leave the car at the hotel and set off on foot toward the starting point of the Sentée di Sort. From Cernobbio, we pass Villa d’Este and Villa Pizzo along the Via Regina. A triathlon happens to be underway, and panting runners rush past us.
Just where the Via Regina merges into the Vecchia Regina, we turn left and the (forest) path climbs upward. Soon we’re walking through the streets of Cernobbio, amazed by the calm and above all the beautiful view of Lake Como and the Como waterfront. This part of Cernobbio we had never discovered before. Unknown, unloved. Lovely apartments and luxurious villas catch the eye.
The sun is shining, and soon we’re panting and sweating on the warm asphalt lanes that wind steeply uphill. Just as our energy could use a boost, a sign for Bar Azzurro catches our eye. Five minutes later, we’re cooling down with an ice-cold Coke. The kitchen is closed, but somehow a simple plate of bresaola still appears in front of us.
You’ll find Bar Azzurro on Piazza Vittoria, a small square that feels more like Umbria or Tuscany. That’s the thing about Lake Como, so many different faces.
Strictly speaking, we should correct ourselves: we shouldn’t be talking about Cernobbio but rather Rovenna, a hamlet higher up that belongs to Cernobbio. The official starting point of the Sentée di Sort lies to the left of the cemetery in Rovenna, on Piazza Santo Stefano. The trailhead is clearly marked with a yellow sign. The Sentée di Sort links Rovenna to Moltrasio over a distance of about 2 kilometers. There isn’t much elevation change—only around 200 meters, gently downhill.
You can just as easily drive to the starting point. There’s a spacious parking lot at the cemetery. But don’t forget: the Sentée di Sort is not a loop, so if you leave your car there, you’ll always need to make your way back.
The Sentée di Sort is an old connecting route between the villages along the western shore of Lake Como, on the slopes of Monte Bisbino. The trail winds past gardens, through orchards and woodlands. Every now and then you’ll come across larger stones or a narrower section, but it never really becomes challenging. On the trickier spots, chains are provided for support. The path is clearly well maintained. Some websites describe the Sentée di Sort as not recommended for people with a fear of heights, but we find that quite exaggerated. So don’t let that discourage you!
The trail runs entirely parallel to Lake Como and feels like an endless balcony with stunning views of Torno and, when you look back, of Como itself. There’s about 200 meters of elevation between the lake’s surface and the Sentée di Sort. We can still see the many motorboats below, but we no longer hear them. Peace and quiet reign here, broken only by the occasional seaplane from the Aero Club Como buzzing past. Walking alongside the western arm of Lake Como emphasizes the sheer space and vastness of the lake. To the left, Monte Bisbino; to the right, Lake Como: a palette of greens and blues brushed with the colorful strokes of charming villages.
Along the way, we pass man-made stone steps and walls. Small structures? Not quite. They are the remnants of the Cave di (Pietra) del Niasc, one of the many quarries Moltrasio once had. From here, the distinctive pietra di Moltrasio was extracted a stone much loved by the Maestri Comacini and widely used in construction: city walls, public buildings, churches, and more specifically for architectural elements such as walls, roofs, stairways, floors, and balconies. In fact, the Roman city walls of Como were built with this very stone. Quarrying here dates back to Roman times and continued until the early 20th century. Today, only one quarry remains active across the lake near Faggeto Lario.
And so, the Sentée di Sort is not just peaceful but also deeply historical. A specially arranged rest area with tables and benches invites you to pause or even enjoy a picnic to let it all sink in.
The Sentée di Sort can easily be compared to the Via Verde walk that runs from Moltrasio to Laglio. What’s more, the two trails connect perfectly in Moltrasio. This way, you can walk all the way from Rovenna to Laglio without much effort enjoying beautiful views and not encountering a single car. If you have the time, we would definitely recommend combining the Sentée di Sort with the Via Verde. For the return, you could follow the Vecchia Regina to give your step counter a boost. Alternatively, bus C10 can bring you back.
The endpoint of our walk is Moltrasio, on Piazza San Martino. We’ve walked about 45 minutes, without any real breaks. At Al Bar Centrale we treat ourselves to a refreshing local beer while watching the mix of tourists and locals pass by. Many of them seem to be enjoying an ice cream from Gelateria Le Giuggiole, a little further along. According to many, this is where you’ll find the best artisanal gelato. Keep that in mind if you decide to try this walk yourself.
For us, it’s time to head back to the hotel. Tonight we have a table booked at Il Gatto Nero in Cernobbio…
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