Sentiero del Viandante from Varenna to Bellano… The Sentiero del Viandante, or the Path of the Wayfarer, is a 45-kilometer-long hiking trail from the Roman period. The path connected the city of Milan with Switzerland. Lake Como was on an important commercial route. Today, it is a popular marked hiking route along the eastern arm of Lake Como between Abbadia Lariana and Piantedo, passing through Mandello del Lario, Varenna, Bellano, Dervio, and Colico.
The entire route, marked in 1989, runs almost parallel to the train route between Milan and Tirano and is divided into four different stages for hikers: from Abbadia Lariana to Lierna, from Lierna to Vezio, from Vezio to Dervio, and from Dervio to Piantedo.
We draw lots and choose the third stage as today’s winner. Hmmmm, hiking all the way to Lierna isn’t possible today; we’ll stop in Bellano. This stage is also the most popular and beautiful, partly because Varenna is a tourist hotspot. We gather some information and learn three things: Varenna is an ideal starting point, the signage on the Sentiero can be lacking at times, and you can (usually) return efficiently and cheaply by train. Handy, as the trail does not form a loop, or you’d have to retrace your steps.
We drive from Como to Varenna by car, passing through Erba and Lecco. Admittedly, it’s not the most scenic route. A dull provincial road that turns into a highway just before Lecco. After about ten kilometers, we take the exit. An alternative? The ferry from Cadenabbia, but it won’t save you any time.
Arriving in Varenna, we park the car in the public parking lot just across from Villa Monastero. Around the corner, we quickly pop into the ufficio turistio. With a brochure, a vague map, and a slip of paper with the train times from Bellano, we head back out. To the right of the parking lot, Via Roma leads us to the point that connects to the Sentiero del Viandante.
After fifteen minutes of walking along the narrow and occasionally steep mule track, we reach Vezio, just above Varenna. The small town is known for its ceramics and the fortified castle and lookout tower, Castello di Vezio.
Via the church square of Vezio, the Sentiero del Viandante continues, up and down. We walk through fields and olive groves. The small hamlets we pass through are less picturesque. Here, people are grounded and practical. We get a taste of a different mentality.
As we go along, we pass a spirited elderly lady who is struggling down the path with the shaky frame of an old buggy to do her shopping. She is followed by two dogs and a cat. Enthusiastically, she stops us and proudly tells us that her three best animal friends always follow her… And in the villages high above Lake Como, that’s enough to be happy. It’s beautiful, these contrasts of Lake Como…
We continue following the orange signs and orange paint spots. No complaints about the signage so far. Tip: don’t get distracted by other arrows! Keep following the Sentiero del Viandante and you’d have to be very determined to get lost. Meanwhile, we arrive in Perledo. We eat a margherita pizza and each order an Aperol! The bill? No more than fourteen euros…
We continue walking in the spring sunshine. Except for the climb to Vezio, the trail is relatively flat. There are few elevation changes. Almost constantly, Lake Como flanks your left side with beautiful views. While the Greenway del Lario mostly runs between buildings, the Sentiero del Viandante winds through forests, meadows, and olive groves. If you want to take a timeout and listen to the silence, this hike is highly recommended.
It’s early April and nature is just waking up from its winter sleep. The hike is recommended as a spring or autumn trip. It makes sense when you’re constantly surrounded by the beautiful colors of nature. We might be a few weeks early… When nature is in full bloom, the hike must be even more beautiful!
In the distance, we approach Bellano. We see the Pioverna River flowing into Lake Como, right next to the large old power plant that was powered by the mountain river. The path gently slopes downward until we suddenly arrive at the Orrido di Bellano. And so we know we have reached the endpoint. We quickly hurry to the Bellano station.
The ticket kiosk is closed. So we buy a ticket (1.4 euros) on the train that just arrives. Five minutes later, we get off the train in Varenna, without a ticket. We rode without paying. When you walk at a pleasant pace and stop here and there, it takes about three hours. It is also quite accessible for children, but don’t drag a buggy along!
We enjoyed it and will definitely draw lots again on our next weekend trip! By the way, why not try a bit of mountain biking next time?
