Discovering Lecco by Lake Como… This morning, we drive from our hotel, Il Belvedere in Torno, to Lecco. Lecco isn’t exactly around the corner from Como. If you choose the scenic route along Lake Como, the drive takes about 90 minutes, with the option of stopping in Bellagio along the way. Alternatively, if you take the inland route through Albavilla and Erba, you can reach Lecco in about an hour. To make the most of our time, we’ve planned a visit to the city center and a walk up to the Belvedere in Parco Valentino.
The route through Albavilla and Erba is rather uninspiring: a highway that mostly runs past large retail chains and shopping centers, from one roundabout to the next. It doesn’t get you very far, especially on a Saturday. The last few kilometers are along a stretch of motorway. We see Lecco appearing ahead, but we don’t get distracted and keep our eyes on the signs because before you know it, you’ll be heading into one of the long tunnels and miss Lecco entirely. Centrooooooo!
We park the car in the Ponte Vecchio parking lot, just a stone’s throw from the Adda River. Sunglasses on, we walk towards the Ponte Azzone Visconti, also known as Ponte Vecchio. This old bridge is symbolic of the city of Lecco.
Azzo Visconti, Lord of Milan, had the bridge built between 1336 and 1388 to connect his Duchy of Milan with Lecco. The bridge was initially supported by eight large stone arches. At both ends of the bridge, drawbridges were installed, with a small fortress in the middle where soldiers kept a strict watch on anyone attempting to enter the city of Lecco.
To improve the flow of the Adda River, which had caused frequent flooding, the river was widened, and two additional arches were added. After further floods in Como in 1440, the widening of the Adda continued, and an eleventh and final arch was added to the bridge.
In 1799, the towers and the fortress were destroyed. Later, in the 1990s, despite loud protests from heritage preservationists, the bridge was widened once again by drilling metal structures into the historic building. Today, the bridge is about 9 meters wide and 131 meters long. One lane, which we happily take advantage of, is dedicated to pedestrians, while the other lane is used by cars, but only in one direction at a time.
Further along, you can also spot Isola Viscontea: a small island in the Adda River that likely formed from sediment dug up during the river’s widening. On the island once stood a military fort. Today, the building and its garden are privately owned. Unfortunately, Isola Viscontea is not open to the public.
We walk across to the other side and head towards the “big brother” of the Ponte Azzone Visconti, the Ponte John Fitzgerald Kennedy. Honking cars slowly move past in the heavy traffic. We stick to the left and continue our walk along the shore of Lake Como.
We stop for some photos at the Canottieri Lecco. This prestigious rowing club has produced several great champions over the years. Even today, Canottieri Lecco remains the beating heart of water sports in the city.
Just a stone’s throw away is the Parco Pubblico, with its impressive monument to the fallen soldiers of the world wars. At the water’s edge stand two stone pillars, almost like an imaginary gateway to the city of Lecco. It’s a shame about the graffiti touches that have been added…
From here, the famous Lungolario Isonzo begins, a walking path that stretches for several kilometers along the shores of Lake Como, passing by various highlights in Lecco.
The first section is particularly beautiful and definitely worth a visit. In a wide curve, a lovely boulevard runs under old trees. To the right, you can hear the bustle of the city of Lecco. To the left, the gentle rustling of the water of Lake Como, with small sailboats anchored nearby. The masts of the boats line up nicely with the majestic bell tower of the Campanile San Nicolò.
In the background, the mountain ranges of Monte Resegone and the Parco Valentino rise up. Couples are walking their dogs, while moms and dads chase after their little ones. Add some blue skies and a warm autumn sun, and you’d be ready to grab your easel and brushes and start painting.
Further along, at Punta Maddalena, San Nicolò stands shining over Lake Como. The golden statue of the patron saint of Lecco floats above the water’s surface, reflecting in the calm lake.
On December 6th, instead of giving toys to children, he hands out red apples in Italy. On the opposite side is the exedra, decorated with fountains, which used to be a public washhouse. In the center stands a statue of Abbot Antonio Stoppani.
We walk back to Piazza Mario Cermenati, a charming square by the waterfront in Lecco, with cozy cafés and terraces. We order an Aperol. Lecco is a delightful place to spend the day, especially on such a typical autumn day by Lake Como. Everything is relaxed, in tune with the peaceful surface of the lake. While Como celebrates its extroverted self as the host of the nouveau riche, Lecco maintains its cool and sobriety. Each leg of the Y-shaped Lake Como has its own character.
The Piazza Mario Cermenati lies in the shadow of the impressive Basilica di San Nicolò, which dates back to the twelfth century and was built on the old, still-visible city walls of Lecco. In the fourteenth century, the basilica was restored at the request of the Leccese. Due to its prominent location on the shores of Lake Como, the basilica was meant to be a focal point and remain just that. And indeed, it has. Today, the Basilica di San Nicolò still retains its integrity and beauty, highlighted by beautifully restored stucco work and frescoes.
Next to the basilica stands the old bell tower, the Campanile di San Nicolò, which you can visit and climb.
We dive into the charming and lively streets of the city center, which lead us to Piazza XX Settembre and the beautiful Palazzo Paure. This neoclassical building was originally constructed for the tax office. It was here that the paure (tax officials) strictly managed the city’s finances. The word paure also means fear—and how scared are you when the tax bill arrives in the mail? Today, Palazzo Paure serves as an art center, hosting both temporary and permanent exhibitions of modern and contemporary art.
Our walk through Lecco continues along various shopping streets, lined with all kinds of shops. Passing a charming vintage book market, we finally arrive at Piazza Manzoni. On this lively square stands the statue of Alessandro Manzoni, one of the great names in Italian literature, best known for his masterpiece I Promessi Sposi.
While Como celebrates its extroverted self as the host of the nouveau riche, Lecco maintains its cool and sobriety.
The lesson on culture ends at the Santuario Beata Vergine della Vittoria, a church with a striking chromatic effect due to the alternation of white Valchiavenna stone and black granite. Every day, the bell rings precisely at 7 p.m., tolling once to honor the fallen soldiers.
And so the loop is complete, and we’ve had a lovely morning. After a relaxing city tour through Lecco, we now want to see Lecco from above. And that plan is already in place: we’re heading to Parco Valentino, where an impressive Belvedere promises a stunning view of Lecco. Not for the faint of heart, we read? We’re excited to find out!
