Sentiero del Viandante from Varenna to Bellano … The Sentiero del Viandante or the path of the hiker is a 45-kilometer long hiking trail from the Roman period. The path connected the city of Milan to Switzerland. Lake Como was on an important commercial route. Today it is a popular marked hiking trail along the eastern arm of Lake Como between Addabia Lariana and Piantedo, passing through Mandello del Lario, Varenna, Bellano, Dervio and Colico, among others.
The entire route, marked in 1989, runs almost parallel to the train route between Milan and Tirano and is divided into four different stages for hikers: from Abbadia Lariana to Lierna, from Lierna to Vezio, from Vezio to Dervio, and from Dervio to Piantedo.
We draw straws and draw the third stage as today’s winner. Hmmmm walking all the way to Lierna is out of the question, we will stop in Bellano. By the way, this stage is the most popular and beautiful, also because Varenna is of course a tourist hotspot. We glean information and learn three things: Varenna is an ideal starting point, the signage on the sentiero sometimes leaves much to be desired, and by train you can (usually) return efficiently and cheaply. Convenient because the trail doesn’t loop, or you’d have to return already on your steps.
We drive from Como by car to Varenna, past Erba and Lecco. Admittedly, not immediately the prettiest route. A boring county road that turns into a motorway just before Lecco. After about ten kilometers we take the exit. Alternative? The ferry from Caddenabia but it won’t save you any time.
Arriving in Varenna, we park the car in the public parking lot just across from Villa Monastero. Around the corner we quickly jump into the ufficio turistico. With a brochure, a vague map and a slip of paper with the train schedule from Bellano, we jump back outside. To the right of the parking lot, Via Roma takes us to the point that connects to the Sentiero del Viandante.
After a 15-minute walk along the narrow and at times steep mule track, we reach Vezio, just above Varenna. The small town is known for its ceramics and for the fortified castle and watchtower Castello di Vezio.
Through the church square of Vezio, the Sentiero del Viandante continues, up and down. We walk through fields and olive groves. The small hamlets through which we pass make one dream less. Here people have their feet on the ground. We get a taste of a different mentality.
So we pass a gritty little retired woman who saunters down the path with the rickety chassis of an old baby carriage to run errands. She is followed by two dogs and a cat. Enthusiastically, she accosts us and proudly tells us that her three best animal friends always follow her… And in the villages high above Lake Como, that is enough to be happy. Beautiful aren’t these contrasts of Lake Como….
We continue to follow the orange signs and orange paint dots. No comments on the signage so far. Tip, don’t get distracted by other arrows! Keep following the Sentiero del Viandante and you should already be ne straffe to go wrong. Meanwhile, we arrive in Perledo. We eat a pizza margherita and order an aperol each! Il conto? No more than fourteen eurooooots….
We walk on in the spring sunshine. Except for the little climb to Vezio, the trail is relatively flat. There are few altitude meters. Almost constantly Lake Como flanks your left with beautiful views. Where the Greenway del Lario runs mostly between buildings, the Sentiero del Viandante winds through flora of forests, meadows and olive groves. If you want to take a time-out and listen to the silence, this walk is a must.
It is early April and nature is just coming out of hibernation. The hike is recommended as a spring or fall trip. This makes sense when you are constantly walking through the beautiful colors of nature. We may have arrived a few weeks too early… When nature is in full bloom, the hike should be even more beautiful!
We approach Bellano in the distance. We see the Pioverna River flowing into Lake Como, right next to the big old power plant that was powered by the mountain river. The path descends gently until we suddenly find ourselves at the Orrido di Bellano. And so we are sure we have arrived at the terminus. We hurry quickly to the station of Bellano.
The ticket kiosk is closed. So we buy a ticket (1.4 euros) on the train that is just arriving. Five minutes later we get off the train in Varenna, without a ticket. Nice ride in the black. If you walk at a pleasant pace and stop here and there, you are about three hours. Also quite accessible for children but don’t drag a baby carriage along!
We enjoyed it and will definitely draw a straw again at our next weekend outing! By the way, why not try some mountain biking?
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