Hiking Greenway del Lario from Colonno to Cadenabbia… Starting the new year at our favorite spot. The year couldn’t start better! Last night we celebrated well with lots and lots of delicious food at Trattoria del Fagiano. Today, we need to loosen our belts a notch, but those extra calories will be walked off today on the Greenway del Lario or Greenway del Lago di Como.
The year 2017 starts for us at Lake Como under a radiant winter sun. As the saying goes, well begun is half done!
The hiking trail is actually an old Roman road, the Antica Strada Regina. Nowadays, it’s a well-marked popular hiking route of ten kilometers that takes you from Colonno to Cadenabbia in three and a half hours. The hike starts at the C10 bus stop in Colonno. You can possibly leave your car in Via Capella. From there, it goes through narrow streets in Colonno to the hills just above the town. You have a beautiful view of Colonno from there. Just like a postcard. It’s notably quiet in Colonno this morning. Frying pans still cooling on the terraces and fireworks debris. Yes, there was partying last night!
The path winds further to Sala Comacina. Imagine: the beautiful church tower with Isola Comacina in the background, bathed in a radiant winter sun. Fantastic! Isola Comacina is the only island in Lake Como. It’s not large and was once owned by our Belgian King Albert I. The Greenway heads back to the water’s edge. We cross the main road and pass the idyllic church of San Giacomo e Filippo.
After a good hour of walking, we stroll through the narrow streets of Ossuccio, and we are already completely in love with this hike! The trail is well-maintained and well-marked with yellow-blue arrows and metal markers on the ground.
Make sure not to look down too much; there is so much beauty to discover! You can also start the hike in Cadenabbia, as the signage clearly indicates both directions.
Our jaws drop at the gates of Villa Balbiano. Symmetrical lines broken by sun rays. Refined Italian nobility. Lake Como at its best! “Historic and elegant villa with a matching garden” could be a headline from a real estate ad! The villa is not for sale, but you can rent it for over 100,000 euros per week. With six rooms, it accommodates 12 guests. Do the math. Would the cleaning be included in the rental price?
Just after Villa Balbiano, we cross a bridge over the Perlana. We immediately turn right and take a breather in the small harbor. To the left lies the peninsula of Lenno. At its tip is Villa Balbianello. Well, let’s keep going. Through the streets of Lenno, we cut across the peninsula straight to Lido di Lenno, a popular area for young people. The route runs behind warehouses and a desolate campsite. We pass the entrance of the path that leads to Villa Balbianello. Lido di Lenno also looks somewhat deserted.
We walk out of the beautiful bay and cross the main road again. This main road, Via Statale, is a symbolic border for us. To the right, often surreal, with beautiful properties and villas in an atmosphere of wealth, finesse, and elegance. To the left, usually more realistic, with houses and apartments of the average resident in an atmosphere of, well… daily life. And that is exactly why Greenway del Lario is such a recommendation: the hike constantly alternates between these two faces of Lake Como, providing a lovely introduction for anyone who truly wants to discover Lake Como. Wow, that got a bit deep…
It’s the perfect moment to be profound because we have now reached Parrocchia di San Abbondio. The cemetery lies right in front of the church building.
We repeat ourselves, but don’t forget to enjoy the beautiful view of Lake Como. We drift away in thought, but then the church bell strikes three o’clock. Oops, is it that late already? We still have quite a way to go, and it will get dark soon.
Is it just us, or does the hike seem longer than 10 kilometers, or is it the altitude? We need to pick up the pace. In Bozzanigo, the trail heads back down.
Before we know it, we’re back at the water’s edge. We walk past Villa Sola Cabiati and Chiesa di San Lorenzo. On the sidewalk, we briskly continue to Tremezzina. During the high season, Tremezzina is bustling with people, and the terraces are packed. The Grand Hotel Tremezzo and Villa Carlotta are the main tourist attractions.
Today, there is little activity, and everything is closed. We can’t say there are many people around, but we are jolted out of our zen moment. For us, this isn’t necessarily the prettiest part. We prefer the tranquility, the authentic villages, and the beautiful views. Maybe that’s why it’s better to start in Cadenabbia and walk to Colonno. That way, you end on a high note. Just thinking…
In Cadenabbia, it’s not entirely clear where the hike officially ends. If we believe the description, it ends where the ferry docks. What we do know is that we have walked for over four hours. Okay, we didn’t rush, but the suggested three and a half hours seems a bit tight.
We walk to the nearest bus stop, hoping a bus can take us back to Colonno. And then it hits us… January 1st, there are no buses running today! Coming up with a plan is easier with a drink. At Bar Company, we call a taxi, which takes us back to Colonno for 25 euros. We chat with the driver, who reassures us that we’re not the only tourists who misjudged the bus schedule today.
It’s dark when we start our car and drive back to the hotel. Greenway del Lario was a hit. What a great way to start our year 2017!
