Il Laghetto: A Bike Tour Around the Entire Lake Como… Let’s cycle around Lake Como: another one of those ideas scribbled on a beer mat between drinks. But here we are with our Vélo Afrique peloton in Tremezzo, ready for 163 kilometers of cycling fun. No lead riders, no egos, just a challenging training ride where collective performance takes precedence over the three kisses from an Italian hostess. Coincidentally, today is also the Tour of Lombardy, starting in Como.
At 9 AM, our peloton sets off under a gray blanket of clouds. From Tremezzo, we head to Menaggio. It’s no coincidence we’re riding clockwise, so we always cycle next to Lake Como. Via Acquaseria, Dongo, Musso, and Domaso, we reach our first major rest-stop-flat-tire-replacement point in Sorico. This is cycling at its best, guys!
We test the limits of our heart rates in Bellano. The map misleads us briefly, and we find ourselves huffing and puffing up a steep mountainside. Lake Como disappears from the bike computer display, and the nice loop on Strava is at risk… We turn back and decide to stick to the main road today. From Varenna, we proceed via Abbadia Lariana to Lecco.
The last few kilometers before Lecco are dangerous and hardly suitable for cycling. We end up on a busy highway – almost a motorway – where cars, trucks, and buses speed past. There’s nothing to do but tighten our grips, pedal hard, and take the Lecco Centro exit as quickly as possible.
In Lecco, we have our lunch stop with pizza. And what do we remember about Lecco? That sitting under an umbrella feels warmer (…).
From Lecco, we cycle to Bellagio. This arm of Lake Como is rougher. We ride through several tunnels where we turn on our bike lights. Speaking of which, always make sure you’re well-lit when cycling through tunnels. You’re vulnerable! Most large tunnels have a safe, bike-only alternative, but not all… The closer we get to Bellagio, the more Lake Como comes alive.
We intentionally enter Bellagio in the opposite direction. We weave between Porsches, Maseratis, and hordes of tourists to the hotspot of Bellagio. A policewoman shouts angrily, “wrong direction,” and forces us to stop. It’s busy and stressful, bustling with many very Instagram-famous influencers. That’s how we experience Bellagio today. But has it ever been different? And so, after 120 kilometers, we’ve reached another important point!
We climb out of Bellagio and cycle from Lezzeno to Nesso, then to Torno, finally arriving in Como. But no matter how quickly you read it, don’t be mistaken—this is a long stage that also represents the majority of the elevation gain. It’s a mind game: with 3/4 of the course cycled, Como still seems far away. Nonetheless, this undulating stage is also the most beautiful, with endless vistas.
When we click out of our pedals at Tempo Voltiano in Como, the evening sun is out. The gray polaroid we’ve been cycling through today is literally coming to life with color. Day-trippers stroll with smiles along the shores of Lake Como. We soak up the sun and a sense of accomplishment. Como never disappoints!
The final stage takes us from Como via Cernobbio, Laglio, Brienno, Argegno, Colonno, and Lenno back to Tremezzo. Of course, we choose the beautiful road through Laglio, where we marvel at the stunning villas and the poor condition of the roof of George Clooney’s Villa Oleandra.
As the sun sets behind the mountain ridges, we stop in Tremezzo with a sense of satisfaction. We’ve completed 163 kilometers with about 1,400 meters of elevation gain, which translates to just under seven hours of cycling.
Cycling around Lake Como should be seen as a fun and achievable challenge. Il Laghetto may not be the most picturesque ride due to the sometimes busy traffic and potentially dull gray sections of the route. Nevertheless, this bike ride captures the many faces of Lake Como well, allowing you to see and experience literally every corner of the lake. And, oh-so-important, hope for good and sunny weather, as it makes all your effort truly worthwhile.
Facts figures
- 165 km
- 1355 alt
- Download GPX
